Notes on Boohoo
It shouldn't come as a surprise, but recent revelations about factory conditions in the UK were front page news this weekend as The Sunday Times revealed that factories in Leicester had continued to operate during the pandemic, despite there being cases of coronavirus amongst staff, a complete lack of social distancing and hygiene practices, and lockdown restrictions which required them to close.
Over the past number of years ultra-fast-fashion brands have come under the microscope with many in the industry questioning just how their product prices can be so low - and how they can have such a quick production turnaround. For many, the evidence was clear. These prices only come at the cost of human suffering. And it is always those at the bottom of the supply chain who suffer the most.
The main factory that was the subject of this weekend's investigation was primarily producing clothes for the Boohoo brand which owns NastyGal, MissPap and Pretty Little Thing and recently acquired Warehouse and Oasis when they went into administration. The company enjoyed an increase of 45% to £367.8 million in the first quarter of 2020 as it shifted its market focus in a matter of days when lockdown hit, pivoting from its usual glut of skintight weekend dresses to 'stay at home' loungewear. The owner of the Boohoo brand, Mahmud Kamani, is worth over £1 billion and was on his way to a £50 million bonus this year. This information makes it all the more alarming that workers in the factory which supplied his brands with clothing were reportedly being paid less than half the minimum wage - in some cases as low as £3.50 per hour. Boohoo is now under investigation for charges related to modern slavery and its shares have dropped by 30%, losing the company over £1billion in a matter of days. Boohoo has also launched an independent review of its UK suppliers, but really, that's not enough. It's likely the brand will cancel its relationship with the factory in question (causing the employees and owners to suffer) and move on to the next one. It’s how these ultra-fast-fashion chains operate.
And while there has been coverage in many national newspapers and online outlets since the story broke, will this be enough to incite change? After all it is the relentless demand from consumers that encourages the company to continue to produce at such alarming rates. Two years ago, Sarah O’Connor broke a similar story in the Financial Times outlining the grim reality of these 'dark factories' which produce clothing in the UK for devastatingly low returns, with their workers working under unethical and dangerous conditions. Ultra-fast-fashion brands like Boohoo and Missguided opt for these factories over those in developing countries like Bangladesh and Cambodia because of their extremely quick turnaround. The USP of these brands is their immediate availability, often offering next day delivery and with a production turnaround of days from conception to sale. They thrive off television and celebrity appearances - if a Kardashian or Love Island star wears a dress one day, you can guarantee a very close knockoff will be available to buy within a week on these websites. Their customers are of the buy, wear, dispose mindset, not wanting to be seen in the same outfit twice - even if it has only been worn for a picture on social media.
Recent days have seen customers and influencers alike speaking out on social media. 'Boycott Boohoo' graphics have been circulating widely and some influencers have vowed not to work with the brands in question again. But the social media world is a fickle place, and its users can often have short memories.
Which is why it's not enough to react only once something negative has come to the fore. It is our own responsibility as shoppers to do our research before we buy. We don't need to be told what or what not to buy, we all have the resources available at our fingertips. All it takes is Googling the brand in question (you will often see newspaper reports on the first page if there is anything extremely alarming and recent) to find their code of ethics or sustainability manifesto on their website. And really, it should be obvious enough that if a brand is selling clothes for less than the cost of your lunch, there is something very wrong. We mustn't be so accepting, we must question how and why clothing items can be this cheap. It's not difficult to see that there are unethical practices at play. While everyone has their own budgets for clothing and fast fashion is the only option for many, a new dress for the weekend is not worth another human’s exploitation and suffering.
It's not enough to expect brands to be responsible and pass the mantle to them. As consumers we need to act with our wallets and ensure our money is going to companies who respect their employees and the environment ahead of the bottom line.